History of kimono
The modern kimono began to take shape in the Heian period (CE 794-1192). Since then the basic shape of both men's and women's kimono has remained essentially unchanged. The garments are one size, and are tucked and folded to accomodate different body heights and shapes (in modern times, however, men's kimono are increasingly available in sizes). Then, as now, various components of the kimono were sewn on before wearing, and removed for cleaning. A kimono would often be deconstructed entirely for washing in separate pieces, and then re-sewn for wearing.
Over time there have been many variations in colour, fabric and style, as well as accessories such as the obi (sash).
Today, kimono are usually worn only on special occasions, and usually by women. Men wear kimono most often at weddings and tea ceremony. Kimono are also worn by both men and women in certain sports, such as kendo. There may still be older women and, to a lesser extent, men who wear kimono on a daily basis.
Types of Modern Kimono
There are several different types of kimono still worn today. They are chosen according to the wearer's gender and age, and an event's level of formality. The following lists the different types by descending order of formality.
- Kurotomesode (黒留袖 ; くろとそで): black kimono, patterned only below the waistline. It is the most formal kimono for married women, worn by the mother of the bride or groom at weddings, for example. Usually has five kamon (family crests).
- Furisode (振袖 ; ふりそで): literally translates as "swinging sleeves". Characterized by its long sleeves (averaging between 39 to 42 inches in length) and patterns which can cover the entire garment, a furisode is the most formal kimono for unmarried women. They are usually worn to coming-of-age ceremonies (seijinshiki) and by unmarried female relatives of the bride at weddings and wedding receptions.
- Irotomesode (色留袖 ; いろとめそで): single-colored kimono, patterned only below the waistline. Slightly less formal than a kurotomesode, an irotomesode is worn by married women, usually close relatives of the bride and groom at a wedding. May have three or five kamon.
- Hakama (袴 ; はかま): somewhat resembling Western pants, a hakama is a divided skirt, worn by men. It ranges from most formal to visiting wear, depending on its pattern.
- Houmongi (訪問着 ; ほうもんぎ): literally translates as "visiting wear." Characterized by patterns which flow over the shoulders, seams and sleeves, a houmongi ranks slightly higher than its close relative, the tsukesage. It may be worn by both married and unmarried women; often friends of the bride will wear houmongi at wedding and reception. It may also be worn to formal parties, such as galas.
- Tsukesage (付け下げ ; つけさげ): a tsukesage has more modest patterns that cover less area - mainly below the waist - than the more formal houmongi. It may also be worn by married and unmarried women.
- Iromuji (色無地 ; いろむじ): single-colored kimono that may be worn by married and unmarried women. It is mainly worn to tea ceremonies. The dyed silk may be figured (rinzu, similar to jacquard), but has no differently colored patterns.
- Komon (小紋 ; こもん): "fine pattern" in English. A kimono with a small, repeated pattern throughout the garment. Somewhat casual: may be worn around town, or dressed up with a nice obi for a restaurant. Both married and unmarried women may wear komon.
- Edo komon (江戸小紋 ; えどこもん): Type of komon (fine pattern) characterized by tiny dots, in dense patterns that form larger designs. The Edo komon dyeing technique originated with the samurai class during the Edo period. A kimono with this type of pattern is of the same formality as an iromuji, and when a kamon is present, may be worn as visiting wear (equivalent to a tsukesage or houmongi).
- Yukata (ゆかた): informal summer kimono usually made of cotton, linen, or hemp, and unlined. Today yukata are most often worn to outdoor festivals, by men and women of all ages.
- Haori (羽織 ; はおり): Hip- or thigh-length kimono coat, adds formality to women's wear. Haori were originally reserved for men, until fashions changed at the end of the Meiji period. They are now worn by both men and women.
See also
External links